Suwon Hwaseong Fortress was constructed to realize filial piety of King Jeongjo, break of factional politics, and implement kingly governance. This place was also used as a defensive base to protect the southern part of the capital. It was partially damaged during the Japanese Colonial Period and Korean War, and bullet marks and cannon marks can be seen on the stones inside the fortress walls. CBT reporters visited Haenggung-dong in Suwon, an area rich in historical and cultural heritage, to explore the intentions of King Jeongjo and observe how Hwaseong Fortress and its surroundings are changed today. Suwon Hwaseong Fortress Ddu-beog-i Walking Tour begins, focusing on the northern and eastern parts of the fortress.
Janganmun
Suwon Hwaseong Fortress Ddu-beog-i Walking Tour started at Janganmun. CBT reporters decided to accept the stamp tour challenge, which includes a total of 10 missions. First of all, the tour guide shared the explanation of Hwaseong with the group. Janganmun composed of two floors is the biggest and most magnificent building along with Paldalmun Gate, the south gate of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. Its name Jangan means Perpetual Peace. It is said that Janganmun gate, which represented the Joseon Dynasty castle gate along with Sungnyemun Gate, and Heunginjimun Gate of Seoul destroyed during the Korean War and was restored in 1975. Damage from the Korean war could be observed through bullet marks on the stone wall inside Janganmun gate, and tourists could find the pain of war in the magnificence of it. Following the map of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, we walked along the path from north to east. It was cold due to a strong wind, but the vast scenery of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress opened our hearts. The quiet trail was good for walking while enjoying meditation.
Northeastern Corner Pavilion(Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion)
We arrived at the Northeastern Corner Pavilion (Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion) after passing through a path that was occasionally as steep as the hill itself. Originally, the pavilion was built as a command center. However, as time passed, it came to be used as a place for enjoying the scenery rather than for military purposes. The Northeastern Corner Pavilion is an L-shaped building with a sophisticated and complex roof design. The pavilion overlooked a large pond. The harmony of the pavilion and its beautiful surroundings is the most outstanding among the various structures in Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. It is commonly known by the name Banghwasuryujeong. Gangnu was built on the high place of the fortress to watch the surrounding area and to be used for leisure. The name comes from the fact that there is one such pavilion at each of the four corners of Hawseong Fortress. King Jeongjo enjoyed archery at Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion and wrote poems about the beautiful scenery around him. The area around Banghwasuryujeong is surrounded by willow trees and reeds. The serene and beautiful scenery of this place was a hidden treasure of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress.
Changnyongmun Gate and Eastern Command Post
After passing Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion and walking for about 15 minutes, we reached Changnyongmun Gate, the eastern gate of Hwaseong. Unlike Janganmun, it is simple but has a round fortress, giving a feeling of a defense base. A command post, called Jangdae in korean, is the center from which a military commander would direct soldiers during military drills and war. It is called Yeonmudae, which means Place for Training Martial Arts.
Hwaseong Fortress Tourist Trolley
Under Changnyongmun Gate, there is a place where you can ride the Hwaseong Fortress Tourist Trolley. The trolley operates only between Changnyongmun Gate and the Hwaseong Temporary Palace. By riding the trolley, you can comfortably tour the north and west sides of Hwaseong, starting from the east, and passing by Suwon Stream while listening to a guide. Be mindful that the ride is faster and more jolting than expected, so hold on to the safety handle. The trolley makes one stop at the Suwon Hwaseong Museum. Additionally, the train runs not only inside Hwaseong Fortress but also around Haenggung-dong in Suwon, allowing you to enjoy the quiet and charming atmosphere of Haenggung-dong.
Flying Kites
On the way to Hwaseong Haenggung, colorful kites caught our eyes. Kites could be easily purchased at souvenir shops around Hwaseong Temporary Palace, but CBT reporters were concerned that the string might break. One of the citizens reassured the CBT reporters saying ¡°It can hold up to 60kg, so do not worry.¡± The wind made it easy to fly the kite, but it was still quite difficult.
Hwaseong Haenggung(Hwaseong Temporary Palace)
When CBT reporters finally arrived, there were pictures engraved on the floor near the entrance to Hwaseong Haenggung (Hwaseong Temporary Palace) that showed the traditions of Joseon at a glance. CBT reporters could also listen to the explanation of the guide.
The guide recommended, ¡°After taking a walk along the Trail of Light section of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, people will be able to experience the beauty of the palace even more if people take a look around Hwaseong Haenggung when it is open at night.¡± At the palace, there remains the place where King Jeongjo held a memorial service for his father, Crown Prince Sado. As CBT reporters reflected on King Jeongjoʼs profound grief, CBT reporters too felt sorrow and loneliness. Unlike other palaces, Hwaseong Haenggung was built with small bricks to make the palace walls thick and low. By using relatively large bricks at the bottom and small bricks at the top, gradation was created, which was aesthetically excellent. At that time, as the major weapons were cannons and guns, small bricks accrued less damage and were convenient to repair when attacked by the enemy.
The CBT reporters were able to collect 7 of the 10 stamps in the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress challenge, and were rewarded with a frog badge which is Suwon¡¯s mascot. If people collect 10 stamps, people can get a magnet in the shape of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. In addition to Hwaseong, the Stamp Tour also covers the area around Haenggung-dong, including traditional markets and Suwon-Stream into the mission.
Food
¡ã The Suwon King Galbi Chicken.
In Suwon, the Suwon King Galbi Chicken from Haenggung-dong Fried Chicken Street, made famous by the 2019 movie Extreme Job, is well-known. The Suwon King Galbi Chicken that CBT enjoyed for dinner had a unique flavor, reminiscent of beef ribs rather than chicken, with a special sauce that offered a perfect balance of salty and sweet. Haenggung Street, the symbol of Haenggung-dong, is lined with a variety of beautiful cafes. CBT reporters wanted to experience the traditional Korean-style house, and visited the cafe Onu-yeowol. CBT reporters ordered the Signature Homemade Walnut Cream Cheese Dried Persimmon Roll, Blueberry Merlot and a Rich, Savory Americano. The dessert was a mix of the sweetness of dried persimmons and the saltiness of cheese, which is a popular combination of sweet and salty among MZs (the Millennial and Gen Z). CBT reporters ended the Suwon Ddu-beog-i Walking-tour experience with tea enjoyed in the traditional Korean-style house.
Visiting Suwon Hwaseong Fortress on weekdays rather than on weekends allows for a more diverse experience. Before visiting, it is recommended to check the schedules for experiences and performances in advance. Flying Suwon, which offers an aerial view of Suwon, operates depending on weather conditions. CBT reporters recommend visiting Suwon Hwaseong Fortress in spring or fall, when various colors coexist. In particular, visiting during the night opening season from May to June allows for capturing many beautiful pictures. Consider visiting Suwon Hwaseong Fortress next spring to experience King Jeongjo¡¯s heartfelt connection to his father and rich history.
By Park Min-a | pmina0124@chungbuk.ac.kr
By Yun Seo-won | yunsw0305@chungbuk.ac.kr